So there’s hammams and hamams. And although the spelling is almost the same, the differences can be solid and chances are that your idea of a hammam is not completely in line with reality.

Don’t panic, a traditional Moroccan hammam is at least as pleasant, you only have to take a few things into account. Expectation management, that’s what it’s called. So pay attention.

What to expect when visiting a hammam

The hammam. A shining tradition in the Arab world where people go to a bathhouse for a thorough wash and scrub. Anyone living in the Western world who visits a hammam is likely to be served a commercialized version with mild massages and other bells and whistles that don’t always have anything to do with a traditional hammam.

The traditional Moroccan hammam

Since my in-laws are Moroccan and I recently learned how it’s done, this hammam thing, a few points to write down for when you visit Morocco and want to visit a traditional bathhouse instead of the tourist version.

First of all, discard any thoughts you may have about the hammam. In a normal hammam, where the majority of Moroccans can be found once a week, you won’t be in a private room on a preheated marble stone. In a traditional Moroccan bathhouse, you just sit on the floor among other people of your gender – there’s no mixing. The floor is warm, though, just like the room you’re sitting in.

In a traditional hammam, don’t expect anyone to throw water over you, or someone to scrub your skin. You can do that yourself, or if you go to the hammam with someone: do it for each other. This is how most hammam visitors in Morocco deal with it: one person exfoliates the other and visa versa. In Morocco, the scrub ritual is also a token of love between friends and family.

Don’t you really feel like putting your hand in a scrub glove yourself? In the bathhouse there are always a few staff members who scrub on request. Obviously, you pay a small amount for this and that’s more than logical because she takes her time, exfoliates you from head to toe and does that very thoroughly. So thorough that you might get a little bruise here and there.

Scrubbing in a hammam

Coming to the scrubbing part, which we seem to not know a lot about. In the first place, scrubbing is not done with soap, but only with a scrub glove and some water (after that you wash yourself with soap). We also take it far too carefully. What we call scrubbing here, you could call ‘stroking’. Scrubbing is though love, scrubbing is done with a hard hand. As if you were a piece of wood that needs a lot of sanding.. that’s scrubbing. The idea is that those dead skin cells you want to get rid of will visibly roll off your skin, because you repeatedly rubbed the same piece of skin with a firm hand. Almost uncomfortable. But, I hereby promise you that your skin – after such a scrub in a real hammam – has never felt so soft.

If you’re visiting a traditional hammam, bring your own stuff

What you should bear in mind when visiting a hammam is that you should bring your own tools. Meaning: a couple of large buckets to fill with hot water (when one is finished, use the other, while letting one fill up again); a scoop bucket with handle to easily scoop the water out of the large bucket to pour over you; a stool for those who don’t want to sit on the floor; a scrub glove; soap and shampoo; towels. You have to pay the equivalent of around five euros’ entrance fee. If you want to be scrubbed by a Hammam employee, you pay a few euros extra. It is ridiculously cheap, so if you are satisfied with your scrub, give a nice tip.

After my first hammam visit, I suddenly understood why my partner here in the Netherlands sometimes complained that he didn’t feel clean. At the time I thought: what a nonsense, you just took a shower, didn’t you? Now I know better. After a hammam visit, you’re not clean, you’re spotless, even between your toes. A delightful feeling. Your skin glows, you have a healthy blush on your cheeks and you’re delightfully rosy.

Traditional hammam or rather a spa in Marrakech?

There is no shortage of bathhouses in Morocco. If you want to visit one, just ask someone on the street for the nearest one. If you are a bit prudish, then visiting a tourist version (hammam with spa) might be nicer. Personally, I like the traditional one more, as it has an atmosphere that cannot be copied. It is refreshing to see a lot of people sitting together in peace to put love and attention to their bodies. Nobody is uncomfortable or insecure, everybody does their thing, sometimes they have a chat.

Having said that, will you be in Marrakech soon and want some super-luxury? Then go to Heritage Spa. On the internet, they write about it saying, “Best spa in Marrakech.” And: “Total heaven.” The interior is colorful, typically Moroccan and cozy. The treatments are not cheap, but worth every dirham. A little advice: after your hammam visit and exfoliation, book a massage with argan oil to rehydrate your skin and make it super smooth and soft. Heritage Spa can be found in the Bab Doukkala district, in the medina. While we’re on the fancy tour, the spa at the Royal Mansour five-star hotel is like a fairy tale – scandalous luxury you could call it, I mean just look it up then you know what I am talking about. Or try Les Bains de Marrakech. Not bad either. Got nothing with hammams, but you do with desert camps? We’ve got you covered as well!